india has one of the richest embroidery traditions in the world. not one tradition - dozens of them. each one developed in a different region, by different communities, using different tools and different materials. and somehow most people who wear Indian clothing every day don't know the names of the techniques on the fabric they're wearing.
this is not a criticism. nobody tells you. you just wear it.
so here's a simple, honest guide to the embroidery techniques used in Candy's - what they are, where they come from and what they actually look like on a saree.
Kasab Aari - the foundation
before we get into the individual techniques, it helps to understand Kasab Aari because it's the thread and tool that runs through most of the handwork in Candy's.
Kasab is a metallic thread - traditionally made from real gold or silver, now more commonly from copper or aluminium with a metallic coating. it has a distinctive sheen to it and when it catches light it does something no regular thread does.
Aari is the tool - a long, thin hook that looks like a very fine crochet hook. the artisan holds the fabric taut on a frame, inserts the Aari through from above and catches the thread from below to pull it up in a loop. it's a technique that requires years of practice to do well and it allows for very fine, precise work.
when you see "Kasab Aari" on a favgreen product description it means the embroidery was done by hand using metallic thread and an Aari hook. the work is fine, the finish is rich and no two pieces look exactly alike.
Zardoshi
Zardoshi is one of the oldest embroidery traditions in India. the name comes from the Persian words "zar" meaning gold and "dozi" meaning embroidery. it was brought to India during the Mughal period and has been part of Indian craft ever since.
traditionally Zardoshi used real gold and silver thread. today it uses Kasab - the metallic thread described above - along with other materials like sequins, beads and stones.
the characteristic of Zardoshi work is its richness and texture. it sits raised on the fabric, which means it has a three-dimensional quality that flat embroidery doesn't have. in good light it catches and reflects in a way that's hard to describe and easy to notice.
Zardoshi is used in several Candy's sarees including Cotton Candy, Grape and Big Babol. in each case it adds a layer of detail that only reveals itself when you look closely.
Kaddana
Kaddana is a type of metallic embroidery that involves attaching decorative elements - typically small metallic shapes or motifs - to the fabric by hand. each element is placed individually and secured with thread.
what makes Kaddana distinct is the texture it creates. the metallic elements sit on the surface of the fabric and catch light differently depending on the angle. it's not subtle work - when it's done well it has a presence to it.
Kaddana appears in several Candy's sarees alongside other techniques. it works particularly well on Upada silk because the fabric's natural sheen complements the metallic quality of the Kaddana elements.
Moti work
Moti means pearl in Hindi. Moti work involves hand-stitching pearls or pearl-like beads onto the fabric one at a time. each bead is placed and secured individually which means a section of Moti work that looks simple from a distance represents a significant amount of time up close.
in Candy's, Moti work appears in several sarees - Cotton Candy, Big Babol, Cherry and Grape among others. the effect is one of quiet richness. it doesn't shout. it's the kind of detail that people notice when they're standing close to you, not across the room.
Ticky work
Ticky is a local textile industry term for sequins - flat, circular discs that reflect light. Ticky work involves hand-stitching these sequins onto the fabric in a pattern.
in Candy's we use different types - regular Ticky, Flower Ticky which are flower-shaped sequins, and Flashy Ticky which are sequins with a higher reflective quality. each type creates a different effect on the fabric.
Ticky work is not delicate in the way Zardoshi is. it's bolder, more playful. on the right saree - like Cherry with its brass and plastic Tickies - it adds a festive energy without being overdone.
Jeko Moti
Jeko Moti is another local term for a specific type of bead embellishment used in Indian textile work. it's placed by hand like regular Moti but has a different shape and texture that creates a distinct visual effect.
it appears in several Candy's sarees - Flying Saucer, Big Babol and Grape - where it adds detail alongside the other techniques without competing with them.
French Knot
French Knot is a classic embroidery technique where the thread is wound around the needle a set number of times and then pulled back through the fabric close to where it came out, creating a small raised knot on the surface.
it sounds simple. it is not simple. getting consistent French Knots across a piece of fabric requires control and patience. when done well the result is a texture that looks almost like tiny beads but is made entirely from thread.
French Knots appear in Cotton Candy and Grape in Candy's - two of the more detailed sarees in the collection.
Khat work - putting it all together
most of the handwork sarees in Candy's are described as Khat work. Khat work is not a single technique - it's a term for the combination of hand embroidery techniques applied together on a piece of fabric. the Kasab Aari thread, the Zardoshi, the Kaddana, the Moti - all of it together is the Khat work.
it's the complete picture. and on a Candy's saree it takes 3 to 4 days per piece to complete.
why this matters
you don't need to know all of this to buy a saree. but knowing it changes the way you see what's in front of you. the next time you look at the embroidery on a favgreen saree you'll know that someone sat with a fine hook and metallic thread and placed each element by hand. that the pattern you're looking at took days to complete. that no two pieces are exactly the same.
that's not just craft. that's a tradition that has survived centuries because people kept choosing to learn it and keep it alive.
explore Candy's at favgreen.co